For the second mica book I used walnut dye on the book pages. I then nipped and ironed the pages flat before folding, punching and stitching them to the book's spine. Two pieces of Lokta paper were glued together to create the book's spine and also support for the mica covers. For this book I inked celtic knots directly on the Lokta paper. The final step was to add a twined thread closure with a small glass bead Steve Hilliard made. Below are the two finished mica books.
Picking up a pencil, pen and brush again. Trying new techniques and maybe developing my own style.
Saturday, May 14, 2016
Mica covered books part 1
We started by making small 3" x 5" x 1" books with mica covers. The mica sheets we used were pre-cut stabilized sheets of mica. This type of mica is less likely to split then natural mica pieces. The mica is translucent, which allowed us to put small images between the mica and the Lokta paper used for the book cover. End papers were wrapped around each of the three signatures of the book.
For the second mica book I used walnut dye on the book pages. I then nipped and ironed the pages flat before folding, punching and stitching them to the book's spine. Two pieces of Lokta paper were glued together to create the book's spine and also support for the mica covers. For this book I inked celtic knots directly on the Lokta paper. The final step was to add a twined thread closure with a small glass bead Steve Hilliard made. Below are the two finished mica books.
For the second mica book I used walnut dye on the book pages. I then nipped and ironed the pages flat before folding, punching and stitching them to the book's spine. Two pieces of Lokta paper were glued together to create the book's spine and also support for the mica covers. For this book I inked celtic knots directly on the Lokta paper. The final step was to add a twined thread closure with a small glass bead Steve Hilliard made. Below are the two finished mica books.
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